Termites are among the most destructive wood-damaging pests found in and around residential and commercial structures. If left unchecked, they can silently weaken foundations, decks, and wooden interiors—resulting in costly repairs. While hiring professionals is an option, many property owners choose to tackle termite infestations themselves with the right knowledge, equipment, and products.
This guide walks you through the step-by-step process of inspecting for termites, identifying common signs of infestation, and treating your home or building using professional-quality products without professional service fees.
A successful termite inspection doesn’t require specialized detection kits. With a few simple tools, you can access high-risk areas and identify early warning signs.
Basic inspection tools include:
A disposable coverall or old clothing
A flashlight (preferably LED)
A screwdriver or inspection probe
These tools allow you to inspect crawlspaces, basements, decks, wooden supports, and other vulnerable zones where termites often invade.
Subterranean termites cause the most structural damage. They build mud tubes and consume wood from the inside out, often leaving no visible signs until serious damage has occurred.
Mud tubes along foundations, walls, or joists
Discarded wings near windowsills or baseboards
Buckling wood, bubbling paint, or swollen floors
Moldy odors or moisture in damaged wood
Hollow sounds when tapping on wood structures
It’s important to distinguish termites from carpenter ants, which burrow into wood but do not eat it. Termites have straight antennae and thick waists, while carpenter ants have elbowed antennae and a pinched waist.
When inspecting for termites, focus on ground-level or below-ground areas. Subterranean termites prefer dark, damp environments and often enter through hidden cracks in foundations or siding.
Wood near soil contact (e.g., deck posts, fence lines)
Crawlspaces and basement supports
Wooden window and door frames
Subflooring and joist intersections
Tree stumps, mulch beds, and stacked firewood
Regular inspections—at least twice a year—are essential for early detection and control.
Once you've confirmed termite activity, effective treatment involves eliminating the existing colony and preventing future infestations. The most reliable DIY approach combines direct treatment of the infestation site with soil trenching around the building’s perimeter.
To reach the termite galleries inside wood or drywall, drill small holes spaced every 3–4 inches. For walls, aim approximately 18 inches above the floor between studs. Once access is created, inject an appropriate non-repellent termiticide foam or liquid directly into the voids.
Recommended active ingredients for this step:
Fipronil (in foam or liquid formulation): Offers delayed-action toxicity, allowing transfer throughout the colony.
Imidacloprid: A systemic insecticide that targets the nervous system; effective against active termite populations.
These ingredients work slowly enough to be shared within the colony, providing residual activity for several weeks or months.
After targeting the internal infestation, create a chemical barrier along the foundation exterior. Dig a trench 6 inches wide and 6 inches deep adjacent to infested areas or the entire wall length.
Application procedure:
Mix your selected termiticide in water (typically 4 gallons per 10 linear feet of trench, following label rates).
Pour the solution slowly into the trench.
Treat the excavated soil before returning it to the trench.
For concrete slab foundations, drill 12-inch spaced holes along the expansion joint or wall edge and inject the same amount of solution into the soil beneath.
Eliminating one colony is only the beginning. Preventing reinfestation is equally important and can be achieved with basic yard hygiene and protective treatments.
Preventive actions include:
Removing tree stumps, wood debris, and old lumber near the structure
Storing firewood off the ground and away from the foundation
Avoiding direct contact between mulch and structural wood
Spraying exposed wood with insect deterrents containing borates or permethrin
Applying long-lasting soil treatments with fipronil at key entry points
Annual or biannual reapplication may be required, especially in high-risk regions or older wooden homes.
DIY termite treatment can save substantial costs—especially for small to moderate infestations. However, it requires commitment, attention to detail, and proper handling of pesticides. If you’re dealing with multiple colonies or lack access to necessary tools, a licensed professional may be better equipped to help.
That said, with the right products and a careful approach, homeowners can successfully eliminate active termites and build a strong defense against future attacks.
Termites won't go away on their own. If you’re committed to tackling the issue yourself, start with a thorough inspection, apply the correct treatments, and take proactive steps to defend your structure. DIY termite control is entirely achievable with the right knowledge—and investing in pro-grade products like Termidor Foam or Taurus SC gives you the same power used by professionals, at a fraction of the cost.